On Safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays. 4

Day 4 walking trail and tribal evening.

Bush walk.

A 6am start with a continental breakfast then departure at 6:30am for our guided bush walk.

For the next three hours , watched by the abundant giraffe population and ostriches we walked the Sebatana Reserve with Johnson, our incredibly knowledgeable and informative guide. His knowledge of the South African bush flora and fauna was astounding. He showed us how to recognise tracks of wildlife in the thick orange dust trails. We saw leopard prints (apparently a leopard is like a domestic cat, you can never own it and it travels across the different neighbouring reserves). Unfortunately this was the nearest we came to seeing the elusive leopard. We saw where snakes had passed across our trail; porcupines and mongoose too, together with the hoof prints of the prolific impala and kudu. The morning chill soon burnt off and turned into a hot one.

Back to the lodge for another breakfast, lunch and a chill by the pool ready for our tribal evening.

Tribal evening.

This was an experience not to be missed. We walked as a group to the camp, the evening location. In the middle of the area a huge fire pit dominated, surrounded by huge cast iron pots with delicious aromas wafting out. The emphasis here was on traditions; traditions still alive in African tribes today.

This particular tribal evening focuses on the indigenous Tswana people. How they once lived and sometimes still do . We were to gain a fantastic historical insight into African culture and lifestyle as well as contemporary awareness.

We were met at the camp entrance by guide Izzy, who explained the imminent process.

Traditionally entry to the camp has to be requested to the camp chief. This is very much a patriarchal society. Women are in the background. So a male from our group, in the correct tradition has to stand at the camp entrance and call three times for the chief. The chief has a bodyguard who will come and see what the imposter wants and then take his request back to the chief, who can take days to make a decision. In the meantime the visitors are allowed to camp outside the village gates, fed and watered courtesy of the village Chief.

Once the chief grants permission the men are allowed to enter. They greet and get seated. Only then are the women allowed in. This tradition was duly observed. Johnson then gave us a talk about the dancing that was to follow the meal. The first dance would be based on the traditions followed when a marriage is arranged between different tribes; the moment of the first meet of the couple. A tribal practise still followed today; this was Johnson’s tribe. The second dance would be based on the time when the black miners worked down the coal mines.

Gumboots: A History
Gumboot dancing was born in the gold mines of South Africa at the height of the migrant labour system and during the oppressive Apartheid Pass Laws.
The mine workers were not free to move around at will and were separated from their families for long periods of time. At best, working in the mines was a long, hard, repetitive toil. At worst, the men would be taken chained into the mines and shackled at their work stations in almost total darkness.
The floors of the mines were often flooded, with poor or non-existent drainage. For the miners, hours of standing up to their knees in infected waters brought on skin ulcers, foot problems and consequent lost work time. The bosses discovered that providing gumboots (Wellington boots) to the workers was cheaper than attempting to drain the mines. This created the miners uniform, consisting of heavy black Wellington boots, jeans, bare chest and bandannas to absorb eye-stinging sweat.
The workers were forbidden to speak, and as a result created a means of communication, essentially their own unique form of Morse Code. By slapping their gumboots and rattling their ankle chains, the enslaved workers sent messages to each other in the darkness. From this came an entertainment, as the miners evolved their percussive sounds and movements into a unique dance form and used it to entertain each other during their free time.
Gumboot dancing has developed into a working class, South African art form with a universal appeal. The dancers expand upon traditional steps, with the addition of contemporary movement, music and song. Extremely physical, the dancing serves as a cathartic release, celebrating the body as an instrument, and the richness and complexities of South African culture.
https://www.toothillschool.co.uk/data/files/dept/music/y7_gumboot_history.pdf

But first the meal. Delicious chicken, creamed spinach, vegetable curry and polenta all served from the cast iron pots by the fire pit. Continuing tradition, men were first; their hands washed by the women. Once they were all served it was the ladies turn. As is the tradition, there was no cutlery. We ate with our hands, the idea being to take a handful of polenta and then scoop the meat, curry and spinach up with this. Delicious South African wine flowed freely. Pudding was slabs of cake. Hands were again washed by the housekeeping team and the dancing could commence.

Starting with the courtship dance, this was the most colourful, energetic and talented dancing I have ever had the pleasure to watch. The dance team were composed of disadvantaged young black Africans. Words cannot describe how amazing it was. Two drummers kept a beat, with two boys being the ‘bass’ with whistles. I was transfixed and blown away. So blown away that I couldn’t loose the moment by whipping out my phone to record. They danced their hearts out, sometimes dangerously close to the fire pit. They gave it their all. It was joyous and absolutely the highlight of my holiday. And we all got a chance to dance with them at the same pace. An absolute privilege it was like nothing I have experienced before.

The gumboot dance followed after a short break, made even better because we were all so excited we forgot there was more to come and were taken by surprise. Again absolutely fabulous. I am smiling as I write.

Sadly the evening had to end. A final bush drive back to Rhino lodge and bed ready for a 5am start in the morning .

https://www.newmarketholidays.co.uk/

https://www.newmarketholidays.co.uk/holidays/africa/on-safari-in-south-africa