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Category: South Africa
On Safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays 8.
Departure
We said goodbye to the Sebatana Reserve, Johnson and all the other staff that looked after us all so grandly.
We had a true South African send off with joyous, happy singing from the Sebatana team.
Our flight wasn’t until the evening so we down the day in Johannesburg . We were due to drive to Soweto but this was cancelled; not considered safe. So instead we went to the Apartheid museum in Johannesburg.
It was interesting walking around. The later years of Apartheid were in my lifetime. I remember the Free Nelson Mandela concert. I remember his momentous release.
And so on to O.R. Tambo International airport for the long night flight home.
South Africa, I had a trip of a lifetime. A true bucket list experience. I thank you.
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On Safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays. 7
Big Game Drive at Kaingo Game Reserve.
Our last big game drive of the trip. It was a very cold start. Winter mornings were beginning to set in with a vengeance and the freezing wind whipped through the open jeep. To a man we all pulled the blankets provide up to our chins.
This was a much quieter drive than the previous ones. Maybe the cold weather was a factor. The animals remaining hidden until the sun came out.
However the high point of this drive was having to break to an extremely sharp standstill due to a Black Mamba across the track in front of us.
According to our guide, Johnson, the highly venomous Mamba is capable of striking at considerable range and may deliver a series of bites in rapid succession, but will only attack humans if it is threatened or cornered; hence we stopped the jeep and let it pass.
No photo here. I was frozen to my seat. I am not averse to many things, but snakes terrify me.
We then drove back to Sebatana for lunchtime cocktails, lunch and free pool time.
Photo Safari with Sundowners at Sunset Rock.
A final safari ending the afternoon at a beautiful location on the Sebatana Private Reserve- Sunset Rock- to enjoy the amazing sunset, overlooking the majestic Waterberg Mountains with a glass of champagne.
In true Afrikaans tradition we also partook in an unusual competition: The Kudu Verspoeg Kompetisie. Contests are held all over the country, at game fairs and community festivals. It also became a formal sport in 1994 and every year there is a world championship competition.
Basically this is a Kudu poop spitting competition. We had girls versus boys. Two heats boys then girls, best of each heat in a final. I was useless. Girls won overall. And all the time tiny Elephant Shrews scuttled among the rocks and around our feet
Back to Sebatana for dinner, managers farewell and departure details. Sadly our stay at the reserve had come to an end.
https://www.newmarketholidays.co.uk/holidays/africa/on-safari-in-south-africa
On Safari in South Africa Newmarket Holidays 6.
Photo Safari and Champagne Bush Brunch.
Day six kicked off with a bit of healthy competition between our two groups. We drove out onto the bush and our task for the morning was to make Bush Hats which would then be judged by the chefs and waiting staff at the Champagne brunch.
The hats had to be made from natural materials gathered from the bush. So:
Reads (for weaving); Silver Cluster leaf (their bark can be used as string); Soft branches for filling in the hat; leaves, flowers etc. for beautification of the hat
Each team had to make a bush hat and also create a story/ fairytale about the hat to be presented at the bush brunch.
This was our entry
Then back onto the jeeps and off to the safari champagne brunch.
The location was stunning, looking down on a very busy watering hole. The champagne flowed and the food was delicious.; game sausages with all the delicious vegetables and salad accompaniments. The animals kept our cameras clicking and the bush hats were judged. An absolutely unforgettable morning
Back to Sebatana for coffee and biscuits and then out again on another game drive and to Christina’s Wallow, a wildlife observation deck to watch the animals come down and feed at dusk!
It was like the best well-being meditation experience in the world to sit quietly and watch the animals in the gathering twilight. Magical.
Finally after a packed day it was back to the reserve for our evening meal and Guide’s Cocktails around the fire pit; a huge highlight that saw us downing traditional South African shots in one.
First was a Springbokkie Shot. Creamy and minty and layered this shot is like having South Africa in a glass. It is a beloved and patriotic drink to South Africa. Its green and gold colors are reminiscent of the country’s national rugby team, the Springboks, and also the country’s national animal. It was delicious.
This was followed by Hakkiesdraad Mampoer, a white spirit distilled (gestook) in a potstill to the highest purity using the traditional double distillation method. There is no sweetening or fortification with any cane sugar. It was lethal!
Finally bed. What an exhilarating and action packed day. An experience of a lifetime.
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In safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays 5.
Day 5. Pilanesberg National Park.
It was a 5:30am breakfast start and a 6:00am departure for the four hour drive to Pilanesberg National Park.
Pilanesberg National Park is a beautiful area in the North West province of South Africa. Situated in the volcanic landscape, its impressive mountain formations and open plains are hope to a range of antelopes and a large population of black rhinos. It’s also home to the big five as well as over three hundred species of birds.
On arrival at the reserve our guide Johnson handed us over to a Pilanesburg guide who took us on the drive around this National Park. The scenery was different to Sebatana; vast, open African plains.
The first momentous event was a huge African elephant walking up the dusty road head-on towards our jeep.
Our driver stopped the jeep as we all sat in total awe as this magnificent beast made his ponderous way past the jeep, our guide talking softly to him all the time. Apparently this is less alarming for the elephant than if we sat in total silence. Then he would have been more likely to prod and attack. It was a magical, life affirming moment.
During the drive the guide explained about the rhino de-horning programme conducted during Covid on the game reserve. A necessary measure to ensure the rhinos survival from poachers killing for their horns. Still a huge problem in the South Africa . All the rhinos in the park were sought out, shot with a tranquilliser and de- horned by local vets. A program that was not only costly but would be ongoing as the horns do grow back. We saw many rhinos, ungainly but again, magnificent animals.
Elephants were prolific on our drive.
This was a different game drive from earlier ones. Pilanesburg is a National Park and larger than the private reserves we had driven. The landscape was more open and drier. We saw less big game, but what we did see was closer and we also saw a whole variety of different wildlife. Warthogs and tortoises being a personal favourite.
Our three hours up we started the long drive home, stopping off for a very late lunch (3pm) for us at a fast food (licensed) burger bar.
Back at Rhino Lodge there was just time for a shower and cocktails then dinner tonight was outside; tables of four beautifully laid and silver service around the fire pit. Speciality meat was ostrich.
Shattered after a long day and extremely early start it was an early night for me ready for our champagne safari the next day.
https://www.newmarketholidays.co.uk/holidays/africa/on-safari-in-south-africa
On Safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays. 4
Day 4 walking trail and tribal evening.
Bush walk.
A 6am start with a continental breakfast then departure at 6:30am for our guided bush walk.
For the next three hours , watched by the abundant giraffe population and ostriches we walked the Sebatana Reserve with Johnson, our incredibly knowledgeable and informative guide. His knowledge of the South African bush flora and fauna was astounding. He showed us how to recognise tracks of wildlife in the thick orange dust trails. We saw leopard prints (apparently a leopard is like a domestic cat, you can never own it and it travels across the different neighbouring reserves). Unfortunately this was the nearest we came to seeing the elusive leopard. We saw where snakes had passed across our trail; porcupines and mongoose too, together with the hoof prints of the prolific impala and kudu. The morning chill soon burnt off and turned into a hot one.
Back to the lodge for another breakfast, lunch and a chill by the pool ready for our tribal evening.
Tribal evening.
This was an experience not to be missed. We walked as a group to the camp, the evening location. In the middle of the area a huge fire pit dominated, surrounded by huge cast iron pots with delicious aromas wafting out. The emphasis here was on traditions; traditions still alive in African tribes today.
This particular tribal evening focuses on the indigenous Tswana people. How they once lived and sometimes still do . We were to gain a fantastic historical insight into African culture and lifestyle as well as contemporary awareness.
We were met at the camp entrance by guide Izzy, who explained the imminent process.
Traditionally entry to the camp has to be requested to the camp chief. This is very much a patriarchal society. Women are in the background. So a male from our group, in the correct tradition has to stand at the camp entrance and call three times for the chief. The chief has a bodyguard who will come and see what the imposter wants and then take his request back to the chief, who can take days to make a decision. In the meantime the visitors are allowed to camp outside the village gates, fed and watered courtesy of the village Chief.
Once the chief grants permission the men are allowed to enter. They greet and get seated. Only then are the women allowed in. This tradition was duly observed. Johnson then gave us a talk about the dancing that was to follow the meal. The first dance would be based on the traditions followed when a marriage is arranged between different tribes; the moment of the first meet of the couple. A tribal practise still followed today; this was Johnson’s tribe. The second dance would be based on the time when the black miners worked down the coal mines.
Gumboots: A History
Gumboot dancing was born in the gold mines of South Africa at the height of the migrant labour system and during the oppressive Apartheid Pass Laws.
The mine workers were not free to move around at will and were separated from their families for long periods of time. At best, working in the mines was a long, hard, repetitive toil. At worst, the men would be taken chained into the mines and shackled at their work stations in almost total darkness.
The floors of the mines were often flooded, with poor or non-existent drainage. For the miners, hours of standing up to their knees in infected waters brought on skin ulcers, foot problems and consequent lost work time. The bosses discovered that providing gumboots (Wellington boots) to the workers was cheaper than attempting to drain the mines. This created the miners uniform, consisting of heavy black Wellington boots, jeans, bare chest and bandannas to absorb eye-stinging sweat.
The workers were forbidden to speak, and as a result created a means of communication, essentially their own unique form of Morse Code. By slapping their gumboots and rattling their ankle chains, the enslaved workers sent messages to each other in the darkness. From this came an entertainment, as the miners evolved their percussive sounds and movements into a unique dance form and used it to entertain each other during their free time.
Gumboot dancing has developed into a working class, South African art form with a universal appeal. The dancers expand upon traditional steps, with the addition of contemporary movement, music and song. Extremely physical, the dancing serves as a cathartic release, celebrating the body as an instrument, and the richness and complexities of South African culture.
https://www.toothillschool.co.uk/data/files/dept/music/y7_gumboot_history.pdf
But first the meal. Delicious chicken, creamed spinach, vegetable curry and polenta all served from the cast iron pots by the fire pit. Continuing tradition, men were first; their hands washed by the women. Once they were all served it was the ladies turn. As is the tradition, there was no cutlery. We ate with our hands, the idea being to take a handful of polenta and then scoop the meat, curry and spinach up with this. Delicious South African wine flowed freely. Pudding was slabs of cake. Hands were again washed by the housekeeping team and the dancing could commence.
Starting with the courtship dance, this was the most colourful, energetic and talented dancing I have ever had the pleasure to watch. The dance team were composed of disadvantaged young black Africans. Words cannot describe how amazing it was. Two drummers kept a beat, with two boys being the ‘bass’ with whistles. I was transfixed and blown away. So blown away that I couldn’t loose the moment by whipping out my phone to record. They danced their hearts out, sometimes dangerously close to the fire pit. They gave it their all. It was joyous and absolutely the highlight of my holiday. And we all got a chance to dance with them at the same pace. An absolute privilege it was like nothing I have experienced before.
The gumboot dance followed after a short break, made even better because we were all so excited we forgot there was more to come and were taken by surprise. Again absolutely fabulous. I am smiling as I write.
Sadly the evening had to end. A final bush drive back to Rhino lodge and bed ready for a 5am start in the morning .
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On Safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays. 3
Day 3. Welgevonden Game Reserve and Night Safari and Bush Dinner.
Today was the first of our Big Five game drives and my favourite of the trip. An early 6am breakfast and we were away.
Welgevonden Game Reserve is currently one of South Africa’s largest private reserves and encompasses more than 40,000 hectares of pristine nature. It is home to more than 50 different mammal species, including the Big 5: lion, elephant, rhino, leopard and buffalo. This was also our most successful game drive, with close up spotting of elephant, buffalo, hippos and rhino, as well as the prolific giraffe, zebra, warthog, and impala. It was made clear from Johnson, our guide:
1.getting out of the jeep was not an option. 2.keep arms and legs tucked in. 3.we would only divert to a sighting from other guides radio calls if we were close by.
Access is obviously restricted to the private reserves, with only a certain number of jeeps at any one time and three hours maximum for a drive.
We had a stopping point midway round the reserve where it was safe to jump out and stretch our legs while staying close to the jeep throughout. Snacks to keep us going were authentically South African bush fair; dried fruit, nuts, dried sausage and bilatong served in tin containers placed on the bonnet of the jeep.
All the animals we spotted were extremely close up. There was a bit more distance between us and the lions, but it was an experience of a lifetime watching two young lions hunt down their prey. As they were spotted the call went over the radio and several other jeeps turned up to watch too. There was something primitive about watching and being a part of a scene unfold that I had only watched on wildlife programmes.
As we sat there herds of zebra, impala and wildebeest started running across the open plain while the lions stalked their prey and finally made their kill. Johnson told us that generally adult lions only kill to eat, but the two we were watching were young lions that were learning to hunt and doing it for the thrill.
What stuck out for me on this safari was the prolific number of different species cohabiting together on the plain. You wouldn’t see this in the Uk in the wild. In addition the huge sizes of the herds of grazing wildebeest, zebra, impala etc. but again as Johnson pointed out the vegetation eaters thrive in large numbers because food is plentiful. The meat eaters have to hunt, so life is more of a challenge. Sadly the lions were too far away for my iPhone to pick up, but managed with the camera, which I’ll post at a later date.
Our three hours up, we drove out of the reserve, flush from our magical morning, back to the lodge and another sumptuous lunch, a cocktail by the pool and a rest before our night safari and bush dinner.
After a rest and an afternoon debriefing we were back in the jeeps for our Bush Evening.
First was the night safari Exploring the African bush at night was an amazing experience, allowing us the opportunity to see animals that are nocturnal in nature.l and an amazing chance to see the beautiful African sky in all its wonder.
It was a magical experience driving around the night bush in open jeeps. It is winter in South Africa now and although the days are still hot, it is cold morning and nights, so we had to wrap up warm, despite the heat of the day.
After the safari we drove into a camp where the Rhino Lodge team had set up tables around a large fire pit and big barbecues roasting our meat for the evening meal: impala with all the trimmings. It was a delicious feast under the stars next to a roaring wood fire.
It was soup for starters, cooked in large cooking pots over a fire and an alcohol fuelled sponge pudding for desert.
Then back into the jeeps for a last ride round before returning to the lodge and nightcap before bed and another early start in the morning.
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On Safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays.
Day 2. Tour information, wildlife talk and Sebatana game drive.
Today was our first full day on the game reserve and true start to our wonderful and adventurous South African experience. The memories began.
Breakfast was vast, setting us up for the day ahead. With the meal nearly over, we were treated to a joyous African welcome through song and dance performed by the Rhino Lodge team. With the backdrop of a South African sunrise it was a colourful, emotional moment.
We then all piled into the open jeeps with our guides, Johnson and Izzy and drove into a camp in the bush. Here the guides gave us our itinerary for the week, we signed all necessary indemnities for the game drives and we learnt a bit about the socio- political history of South Africa.
Back to Rhino Lodge for a sumptuous lunch and a cold beer, then back into the jeeps for our first game drive photo safari.
We saw an abundance of wildlife, including the giraffes which are prolific on the Sebatana Reserve.
We sat for a while watching the crocodiles up close from the jeep. We were safe as crocodiles only attack from the water. These two were the only two in the small watering hole plus one of their offspring who, Johnson told us was about a year old. Apparently he was lucky to be still there, since the father croc eats the all the young.
Eventually we headed back to Rhino Lodge as the sun was setting over the African bush. It was magical.
Dinner again was sumptuous and plentiful with Warthog the specialty meat. Warthog noodles has got to be , for me, the best meal I have had in a long time. The food is beautifully presented and introduced by our chef. Truly fine dining at its best.
To finish the day, a couple of cocktails and an early night, ready for our first full big game Safari at the Welgevonden Game Reserve the next morning.
https://www.newmarketholidays.co.uk/holidays/africa/on-safari-in-south-africa
On Safari in South Africa. Newmarket Holidays.
Day 1. Arrival.
This trip was booked 18 months ago, so long awaited.
A twelve hour overnight flight from London Heathrow into Johannesburg, followed by a four and a half hour drive with a lunch stop at an amazing food shack in Modimolle, complete with sparkling South African wine. After twenty eight hours of travelling from leaving home we finally arrived at the Sebatana Private Game Reserve. Our first ‘big game’ was hanging out by the long drive up to say hello
Sebatana was originally a cattle farm. The current owners brought the farm in 1998 and restored it to its natural state. It is a beautiful oasis in the middle of the Waterburg mountains surrounded by wildlife from all over Southern Africa. The animals have the chance to live in their natural habitat, without human interference. The Waterberg Mountain area is malaria free; a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, 149 miles North of Pretoria, under complete environmental protection.
Our small group of twelve are staying in the Rhino Lodge. We have our own team of chefs, preparing exquisite fine dining, including snacks for safaris; also two bush guides who will be with us all week,
Accommodation.
Rooms are large and luxurious, each with a huge bath, shower and outside sitting area. The artwork is fabulous and all interior accessories artfully and tastefully arranged, complete with sprigs of local shrubs. Doors have to be kept firmly closed because apparently the monkeys will come in and wreck the joint.
On arrival at the reserve we were greeted by the Sebatana Team with hot flannels and a cocktail. Time for a quick shower and a walk up to the main lodge for the manager’s introductory talk on our itinerary for the week around an enormous fire pit, followed by our first dinner; kudo fillet steak, the first of the speciality meats we would eat over the week.
After a very long journey and exquisite food, we were all ready for sleep.
Milly Space 